MANITOBA RIVERS
No story of the early settlement of Manitoba can be written without
mention of the rivers. The Winnipeg, Red and Assiniboine were vital trade routes
to the northwest. Naturally the settlers would follow the path of the fur trade.
By way of the Winnipeg River, early settlers came from the east, by boat, to the
beginning of a flourishing settlement at the fork of the Red and Assiniboine
Rivers, known as Winnipeg. As well as a main artery for trade and settlement,
the Winnipeg River is the basis for all Manitoba's hydro-electric power.
Although the Winnipeg and Red Rivers played important roles in the
opening of the west, it was the Assiniboine River that was more closely
connected with the early settlers and future residents of the community of
which we are writing. This river derived its name from the Assiniboine or Stony
Sioux Indians. The word "Assiniboine" means "one who cooks by stones",
referring to a method of cooking peculiar to the nomad Stone Indians who
roamed this region. The Assiniboine flowing for 450 miles through
Saskatchewan and Manitoba was the early highway bringing some settlers to
Crandall. In the early days river steamers plied the Assiniboine between
Winnipeg and Fort Ellice. One such steamer was the "Marquette" on which Mr.
John Gunson, an early settler in Crandall, remembers coming.
Besides bringing early residents to this area, the valley was, in early
times, a source of food, firewood and building material. At that time the valley
abounded in buffalo, moose, deer, caribou and fowl. Buildings were made of elm
logs and some are still standing today in the Palmerston district. The old Borland
place has a log granary made of elm, also a house. Other log buildings still
standing are on the Donald Douglas, William Nankivell and Bert Lawrence farms.
THE ARROW RIVER
The Arrow River winds through part of the district and empties into
the Assiniboine to the south. In its valley, along the banks and in the water, the
children, young people, and the not-so-young, found and still can, find
recreation.
Here the children learned to swim in the many swimming holes along its
course. In the winter, the hills are good for tobogganing and sometimes when the
ice is clear of snow, the skating is good.
Exploring the valley on foot is rough going but worthwhile. Beaver
dams are found in different places and in different periods. There was usually
one above or below Mark's bridge, sometimes near Blairs, on Crawfords or
Johnstons and Meyers. There are springs along the bank with an iron, oily look,
but the water tastes good and below is the muskeg, which sinks ominously under
you as you move quickly from one hummock to another. A cow was once lost in
one of these muskegs.
Most of the lovely old bridges are gone and replaced by the more
practical but certainly not beautiful steel culverts. One is still there south of T.
Van Buskirk's. Each summer there is a colony of hundreds of Cliff Swallows that
nest there. Some years the fishing is good if you know where to go. Trapping
muskrats at times has been profitable and occasionally beaver are trapped when
they become too plentiful.
This little valley has a beauty of its own in each season of the year. The
roar of the spring break-up is followed by the first leafing of the trees and the
profusion of white bloom. Later in the summer the saskatoons, chokecherries
and cranberries ripen and then come the changing colours of fall and finally the
snowy stillness of winter.
TRAILS
Very little is known today of the main trails that criss-crossed our
community when it was in its early settlement. Bits and pieces of sunken trails
show up still in the pastures and uncultivated areas. They stimulate the
imagination and cause one to wonder where they led — were they Indian trails,
or trails made by settlers as they traversed the countryside with oxen and
horses?
There are not many left that can remember these early trails before the
roads, as we know them, were built, but we are fortunate to have a few early
residents of the area, Mrs. Angus Frame (Edna Warren), Winnipeg, Mrs. W.
Lorimer (Frances Warren) and Mr. John Rudd, Vancouver, answer our request
for information on trails.
The following is an excerpt from Mrs. Frames's letter:
"As to the trails, yes, together my sister, Frances, and I can remember
many of them and we are having a lot of fun doing so. Prairie trails were still our
roads well into the 1900's. I'll mention here that my father, Nixon Warren,
became Councillor in 1906 and built several roads in his ward.
Something I'm not sure about is the Assiniboine River crossing in the
early days. It was a wooden bridge, I recall, south of us and a man called
McCrichey had some sort of a stopping place in the valley near the bridge. I
remember my father talking about being there for a meal and to feed the horses
when he hauled grain to Virden. That bridge is replaced now as of course you
know, by the present steel structure, and is called "Sproat's Bridge" locally as
opposed to another bridge further south on the river.
Further north there was a wooden bridge called "Mitchell's Bridge"
named for the farmer on whose land it was built. It was just about straight west
from the back of my Dad's homestead.
The road to Virden in early days led past the Tom and Billy Kidd farms
then branched off to the west and ran past the Jack Good and Mr. Storey farms
until it hit the "gravel" as it was called, a trail along the top of the river valley.
The trail to Hamiota from our home on NW 10-13-25 led east through
meadows and across the ravine at the bottom of the little round hill and across
the fields, around the pot holes on the old Robinson farm, then north east to
Jim Lewis's farm and the Hazelwood farm and south of Chumah into Hamiota.
You must understand when those trails were first made, they zigzagged to avoid
those potholes or sloughs and so were rather unpredictable."
We now continue this story with an excerpt from a letter by Mr. John
Rudd. "You were asking if I remembered any old trails. Well, the country was
full of them at one time, mostly short ones. I think I can give you a couple of
fairly long ones. I think the marks found in the pasture of the John Hyndman
farm were part of the old Indian trail, running from the reserve at Hall's Bridge
in the Assiniboine Valley north of Griswold, to the reserve in the valley west of
Beulah. It ran through part of my old farm SW 27-13-25 and angled north west
through the Pat Morison farm, north of Arrow River and on to Beulah. It was a
well-beaten trail. I can remember in the early 1890's when there was an Indian
Pow-wow or other celebrations, there would be strings of them going for hours
at a time between the reserves.
The other trail I remember well ran from the old Carlingville school
north east towards Arrowton school (Decker area), then toward Orrwold school
and on to Shoal Lake. It ran south west from Carlingville school through part of
the Mark farm, then part of the Lee farm, then through the Cox farm yard, and
the Richard Rudd farm yard, then south west past Morisons. It went on south of
Arrow River to the old Mitchell Bridge and winding up the valley hills and on to
Virden. The settlers from around Carlingville and south hauled grain to Virden
and the ones north to Shoal Lake. That was before Hamiota started. I think it
would be hard to find any parts of these old trails now."
Mrs. Leonard Lipscomb tells of a trail that ran north west to south east
just north of her parents home on NW 19-13-24. This may have been the trail
between Carlingville and Logach Post Office.
Mr. and Mrs. Ed. Borland relate the following information supplied in
part by Mrs. Eva Kennedy of Virden: "The first roads ran more of less from
farm to farm, skirting the sloughs and oft times it was a problem to find a
suitable place to cross the creeks. This was the case north of Crandall at what we
now call Rockley's Hill. Here they went a mile east through the corner of the
farm now owned by F. Preston, then through M. McLean's and then back
through Section 25 to Arrowton School. The same thing happened south and
west of Crandall. The trail went through the Morison farm and the Quadra hills
enroute to Arrow River. From Carlingville there was another trail to Blaris which
went northwest past J. Crawfords. J. Johnstons, R. Flemings and E. Torrances,
on past Lucas Post Office (F. Campbell farm). We are not sure where it crossed
these sections of land."
Nelson Henderson tells us that there were no trails on the road
allowances in his area. One main trail running north east to south west went
through David Henderson's farmyard and Dave Kerr's yard then angled west and
south to Pope. This was a main trail for many years even after fences were built.
There was another trail running east-west on the Ralph Henderson farm.
Destination unknown.
We would like to note here that the trails passed through the farm yards
or homesteads so the neighbours could help one another out by bringing mail
and food articles and perhaps the neighbouring lady would stop off for a visit till
the husband's return.
The closeness of farmsteads in the early days must have given the
traveller some assurance of safety in winter during the years of the terrible
blizzards that were prevalent in the area.